Inspired by Sarah Cooper's Lava Meets Sea quilt at Coopcrafts, I set about creating my own version.
I decided to go with teal instead of aqua, and batiks instead of solids. My half square triangles (hst) are 3" finished. To begin, I cut a bunch of 4" squares--as in, I didn't count since I was too busy cutting plenty. Mathematically speaking, the exact measurement for half square triangles should be 7/8" larger than your finished size. However, this only works in a perfect world. If you live on my planet, this always results in half square triangles that are too small and a square-ish, but not exactly square, shape. It works much better to cut the squares a teensy bit larger, so you can make sure they end up being 3 1/2" unfinished after any stitching and pressing imperfections and distortion.
I matched up pairs of squares, right (pretty) sides together, making sure there was a lighter and darker value, so I had sets of dark red with lighter red, dark red with light teal, dark teal with light red, and dark teal with light teal.
The next step in the process was drawing a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner of the wrong side of the lighter-colored squares. I like to use a Bohin chalk pencil or Frixion pen, but a pencil is a perfectly acceptable option if that's what's handy.
I sew 1/4" on either side of the drawn line. I chain my squares through the machine sewing on the left side of each square without severing the thread between squares, flip the whole thing around and sew 1/4" away from the other side of the drawn line.
Leaving the line of thread connected, I press one triangle flap open, rotate the chain of squares around so the square that was on the far right is on the far left. Press the other flap open.
Cut from corner to corner along your draw line, making two separate half square triangles.
The sweet folks at Bloc_loc sent me a 6 1/2" half square triangle ruler to evaluate. I highly recommend it! There is a groove down the middle that nestles against the seam of half square triangles so the ruler will not slide around, assuring a safe and accurate cut. Additionally, the process of using the ruler eliminates the need to remove dog ears (the tiny triangles that stick out from underneath the half square triangle) in a separate step. While you can, and I previously did, use a regular, square acrylic ruler, this is so much easier. I don't have to take longer trying to exert enough downward pressure on the ruler to prevent it from moving and taking a chunk out of my block, or worse, my finger.
To use the ruler, lay the groove against the seam and push it as far forward as possible, while still having a tiny bit of fabric poke out beyond the edge of the ruler.
Square up two sides. I hold the ruler with my left hand and cut off the right and top edges.
If you have a rotating cutting mat, turn it around and slide the Bloc_loc ruler down along the seam line. If not, rotate the ruler with the hst still nestled underneath it, so that the corner that was on top is now on bottom. Slide it to your unfinished measurement (finished size of the block plus 1/2"). Since my half square triangles are going to be 3" finished, I lined up my already-cut edges with the 3 1/2" marks. Another advantage to this ruler is the nice thin, easy-to-read lines. There aren't all those wide yellow marks every 1/8" getting in the way. Cut along the edges of the ruler to square your block to the desired size.
Bloc_loc also makes hst rulers in 1.5", 2.5", 3.5", 4.5", 5.5", 6.5", and 12.5", as well as flying geese rulers, in case you want to purchase a size specifically suited for your project of incorporate flying geese units. I found using the Bloc_loc ruler to be easy and quick. It's one of those "Where have you been all my life?" notions. Thank you, Bloc_loc.
Here's my progress thus far. I plan to swap out some of the pieces with those that have better contrast, but I am loving what I am seeing.
