Showing posts with label Tutorials. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tutorials. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 7, 2020

Quilt Block Mania: Summer Fun


Welcome to Quilt Block Mania, Summer Fun Edition. This will be a monthly online blog hop with free blocks that follow a theme and color scheme. I present to you my crabby creation!


If you want to make your own, you'll need to get cutting:

A: aqua, B: brown, T: teal 

3” x
1½”
2½”
3½”
4½”
A
6
2
2
1
B
6
4

T
1


1½” x 2½” A
2½” x 6” A
1½” x 6” A
2½” x 5½” A
3½” x 6” B
(2) 1½” x 5½” B
2½” x 6½” B
4½” x 6” B

Now for assembly! Sew together a 1½” x 2½” A, 2½” x 6½” B, and 2½” x 5½” A. 

Sew the following strip sets by attaching the 6” sides. Crosscut each into (4) 1½” sections.
3½” B, 2½” A
4½” B, 1½” A




Sew the following strip sets by attaching the 3” sides.
3½” A, 1½” B, 1½”A
1½” A, 1½” B, 1½” A, 2½” B
1½” T, 1½” A, 2½” B, 1½” A
1½” B, 1½” A, 1½” B, 2½” A
2½” B, 2½” A, 1½” B
2 ½” B x 3½” A
1½” B, 4½” A



Crosscut each into (2) 1½” sections.


Sew the sections into two units that mirror each other.





Sew the 2 mirror units on the right and left of the remaining section as shown.



Gather up the rest of the designers' blocks:

Curvy Fish by Velda Roy of Freckled Fox Quiltery

Saturday, June 20, 2020

Burp Cloth Tutorial


Welcome! Today I'd like to show you a quick and dirty clean tutorial for baby burp cloths. Some babies are just ickier than others. I believe the polite term for a spitty, grouchy hell-raiser like my first child is "colicky". Anyhow, my sister-in-law has a sweet baby with the same inclination to make you feel like you should wear a rain poncho indoors. I decided to make her a practical gift to accompany the many loads of outgrown things I can KonMari her way. Handmade burp cloths are just the ticket.
I purchased Room Essentials hand towels from Target, and pulled fabric from my collection. (Calling it a stash or accumulation feels less validating. 😉)


I placed the towels on an opened yard of fabric as shown on this very rough drawing. 


Then I cut around the towels leaving some wiggle room, in terms of fabric excess, in case the towels shifted as I sewed them. I spray the fabric with Best Press in a continuous mist bottle before pressing. I used the Oliso Mini Project Iron to press my fabrics. I received mine from the company to review. It is a beautiful compact iron, complete with steam. Fresh out of the box, I feared the steam didn't work, but after priming it a few times (aka to a soap bottle) it did function.


The grip is a bit uncustomary, as you direct the motion mostly with the inside of your palm, instead of wrapping your fingers around a typical handle. The iron capable of reaching high heat, so much so, that it can be warm to the touch where your fingers rest. The company recommends using a lower setting in this case. Rather than having extending feet like the full-size Oliso, this model rests on a trivet. Bear in mind that while the trivet protects your work surface, it does absorb heat and needs to cooled before being touched. Conveniently, the iron tucks into the trivet for storage. The cord can be wound around the trivet, which contains a hole that can be hung at a safe height (which is pertinent with littles around).


I pin around the edge and stitch around the perimeter (about 1/2" from the edge of the towel), leaving a 6" gap in the middle of a long side for turning.



Then, I carefully trim the excess fabric even with the towel without clipping a chunk out of the towel (most of the time 😊). Here are my beauties --- the navy Olfa Splash and the coordinating large mat!


Then I do the Flip-O (certainly a technical term, hence the capitalization).


Next comes pinning the gap.


Topstitching 1/4" from edge around the entire perimeter will resolve the opening and give the piece a finished look.


Easy peasy!


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Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Galaxy Quilt Secrets Revealed: Invisible Machine Appliqué

Welcome to those dropping by from the Aurifil blog! If not, check out my guest post on AURIbuzz where I was challenged by OLFA and Aurifil in the Slice & Stitch Challenge, a monthly event during which one Aurifil Artisan and one OLFA Ambassador each share how they put an OLFA tool and a specific weight of Aurifil thread to work.


I had the privilege of using 80 wt Aurifil and the OLFA Rotary Circle Cutter.


Don't tell anyone, but this was really not challenging. Both are soooooo easy to use. Getting them out of my tight grasp after I've experienced playing with these awesome notions in conjunction--- now that would be a challenge!


As promised, I'll divulge some the techniques I explored during the process of creating my Galaxy Quilt, and how you can apply these methods to your own projects. Today I'll be sharing strategies for invisible machine appliqué. Over the course of the coming weeks, I'll be adding weekly posts explaining more of the techniques, so be sure to following Quilting Mod, or subscribe by e-mail. Before I give you the scoop, here are my astronauts making the foreign planet inhabitable by introducing OLFA and Aurifil.

Invisible Machine Appliqué

The Galaxy Quilt gave me an opportunity to try methods from Machine Finished Hand Applique with Beth Ferrier on Bluprint, as recommended by Nancy Arseneault when I admired her beautiful work at Quilt Fiesta. Beth has an out-ot-print book, Hand Applique by Machine, also. I outfitted myself with the gear, which included foundation stabilizer, turning rods, tweezers and a glue pen with refill. Budget alternatives are freezer paper instead of foundation stabilizer, a precision screwdriver set or chopsticks instead of the rods, economical tweezers, and a school glue stick.

When using freezer paper, I tore two identical lengths and ironed one on top the other with the waxy side downward. The double layer is stiffer and preshrunk so it doesn't get smaller after I apply it to the fabric with the heat of an iron. I then used the OLFA Circle Cutter to cut a circle the exact size I'd like my planet. I adjust the OLFA Circle Cutter 1/4" larger using the guage to cut my fabric. I pressed the freezer paper circle in the center of the wrong side of the planet fabric with the waxy side toward the fabric. When I used the foundation stabilizer, I applied the stabilizer circle to the wrong side of the fabric with glue stick, and used a dry iron to dry the glue. While I've heard there's a fusible side to the foundation stabilizer, I found nothing to  indicate this.


To assist the seam allowance in turning under without creating lumpy pleats, I cut slits in the seam allowance almost to the stabilizer or freezer paper, but not quite. 


Run glue around the seam allowance, one small section at a time, so it doesn't dry before you get it turned over. If you have the turning rods, I recommend using the forked end to hold the foundation in place near the seam you're turning. Use the slanted side of the other rod to push the seam allowance over a bit at a time.


Spinning the appliqué shape on an OLFA Rotating Mat is helpful so that getting an ergonomic angle doesn't require lifting the shape from the mat and repositioning repeatedly.


I found the foundation stabilizer to be less stiff than freezer paper. At times, the stabilizer would fold onto itself and make the outer curve flatten into a straight line. The freezer paper does not have this problem; however, it must be removed unlike the stabilizer, which is meant to remain in the quilt and will turn into fiber as the quilt is washed in the future.



If the use of glue was liberal, it can be slightly challenging to remove the entirely of the freezer paper without fraying the edge of the fabric. Press the edges of the planet over again after removing the freezer paper.


Stitch the planet to the background using an 80 wt Aurifil thread that matches the planet and a zigzag stitch with a length of 2 and a width of 1. Stitches should alternate being on the planet and just barely on the background. Reduce the length to .3 to start and stop. If freezer paper was used, I recommend using a stabilizer on the wrong side of the background.


To add a ring to a small planet, the shape can be traced onto the foundation stabilizer with a Frixion pen and cut out. Glue to the desired fabric and trim 1/4" around the shape.


The ring only needs to extend 1/4" behind each side of the planet since it will be hidden underneath the planet.


Turn the edges that won't be hidden by the planet over using the tools or a precision screwdriver and/or chopstick.


I'll be back next week with more details on the techniques involved in the creation of the Galaxy Quilt, so be sure to follow via e-mail or your favorite blog reader.

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Thursday, April 26, 2018

On Your Mark, Create! Part II

Formerly, I showed you how to make a 12" finished, strip-pieced block featuring Simone Bradford's On Your Mark fabrics for Paintbrush Studios. As promised, I'm going to show you how to amp up that block to create and even bigger, awesomer (Yup, I know that's not a word.) 24" finished block. I threw in a white solid to make my low volume background fabrics go a little farther. (I have a practice of diving in, chopping up fabric, and then calculating the most efficient method of using the fabric--in that order.) In hindsight, I would have chosen something that was creamier. (Again--do first, analyze later, on my part.)


You'll need a 12" block for the center, so check out my previous post for assembly instructions. Or you can use any block you like that finishes at 12"; I promise my pride can handle it. You could even use up orphan sampler blocks you have hanging around. How economical!




Now let's cut up some fat quarters. I recommend non-directional ones. From the color, cut four 2 1/2" x 20" strips and one 2 1/2" x 10" strip.


The following will give you the pieces and parts you need for the background for two of the corner units. From a background fabric fat quarter, cut two 4 1/2" x 20" strips and two 2 1/2" x 20" strips. Divide each 2 1/2" strip into two 2 1/2" x 10" strips, making four total.


To cut the background necessary for the outer middle sections, cut two 4 1/2' x 20" strips and two
2 1/2" x 20" strips from a fat quarter. Do this once for each block.


It's stitching time! For the corner units, sew a 10" background strip to each 10" side of the 10" color strip. Crosscut into four 2 1/2" sections.

Sew a 20" color strip to one side of a 4 1/2" x 20" background. Crosscut into eight 2 1/2" sections.


Use three pieces to assemble each corner section. Four units are necessary for each block.



To create the units for the outer middle sections, sew a 20" background strip to each side of a 20" color strip. Crosscut into eight 2 1/2" sections.



Sew a 20" color strip to the side of a 4 1/2" x 20" background strip. Crosscut into four 4 1/2" sections.


Sew a 20" color strip to one side of a 4 1/2" x 20" background. Crosscut into eight 2 1/2" sections.


Use five pieces to create each center middle section. You'll need four units for each block.


Then, assemble the blocks!


Share using #onyourmarkfabrics and tag me at @quiltingmod.

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