Today's Technique - Binding

Today we're going to machine bind, just in case you wondered how to go about doing that.

Measure the perimeter of your quilt. That would be the length plus the width, doubled. Add 15 to this measurement. Take this number and divide by 42". You will need one more strip of binding than the resulting number. (For example, if you ended up with 4.2, you'll need five.) With the fabric still folded like it was when it came off the bolt, cut width of fabric strips (selvage to fold) that measure 2 1/4". Connect these end to end with a 45 degree angle to reduce bulk. Press connecting seams before cutting to 1/4". Spray the wrong side with starch or sizing. Press in half, wrong-sides (non-printed sides) together to make a skinnier strip.

I square up my quilt tops before quilting. After quilting, I cut the batting and backing 1/4" larger than the quilt top and as square as possible using a 20 1/2" square ruler for the corners and a 6" x 24" ruler for what remains. I make sure all parts of the quilt top are 1/4" from the edge of the batting or closer. Otherwise, I need to square up small enough to make this occur. If I don't, my binding may not catch the quilt top in this spot and batting will be exposed. The reason I leave the 1/4" of batting extended from the quilt is so that the binding is filled instead of flat and empty. I do clip the corners of the batting outside the 1/4" to remove excess bulk.

I begin sewing a 1/4" seam on my least likely to be visible side of the quilt. Leave roughly 10" free and do not backstitch when you start. The raw edge of the binding should line up with the raw edge of the quilt. You can use a walking foot to increase the likelihood of even feeding on top and bottom, so long as you keep a straight 1/4" stitch line. I also wear Machingers gloves to get a better grip during the process. If your machine has needle down, now's the time to employ it. If using a regular presser foot,  I adjust my needle position so it is 1/4" from the right edge of my foot so that I can follow the raw edges of the binding with the foot.

I continually check with my Add-A-Quarter ruler to make sure the binding is 1/4" from the edge of the batting in case the quilt top wavers a little in its distance from the edge of the batting.

When you come to a corner, fold the binding to the right, making a 90 degree angle. If the diagonal angle continued, it should go to the corner of the quilt. Press with your finger. 

Fold back open. Continue stitching until you get to the fold line.

 Lift the presser foot with the needle down, pivot, put the foot back down, and stitch following the line diagonally off the binding.

 Refold the binding. Then, fold it back on itself along the next side. The fold should be even with the raw edge of the binding. The binding should still be 1/4" away from the edge of the batting. Stitching should be 1/2" from the edge of the batting. 

Starting at the edge of the batting, begin stitching 1/4" away from the raw edges of the binding.

I use my seam ripper to make sure the top layer of binding doesn't squirm ahead of the layer touching the quilt top.

  
When you get close to where you started, quit stitching when you have at least 10" of binding hanging lose. Cut off the excess leaving at least a 3" overlap.

Open up one end. Fold at a 45 degree angle. 

Lay the other end inside.

Close.

Reach inside and pinch the wrong sides of the fabric and pull outward. You should be holding the folded over triangle and the layer of fabric just above it. Pin this in place.

Buckle the quilt over onto itself and safety pin so it is no longer pulling the binding tight. Mark the diagonal line. The extra length of binding should be off to your right. Pin on the right and left side of this line.

Sew on the line. If you look closely, you can see my orange and green pin heads and how my quilt is folded over to give me room to get the binding into the machine.

Lay the quilt out again and inspect to see if the binding lays flat. Repeat the process it is too loose or too tight.

If it's just right, press the seam open.

Cut to 1/4".

Lay the binding back into place.

Restarch and press. Sew the remaing length of binding onto the front of the quilt. Then, press the binding away from the quilt top to make it easier to roll to the back.

  

At the corners, fold the binding so the bulk is distributed evenly. Feel with your fingers to see which side is thicker. Make the overlap on the back got on the opposite side of the miter.

Lovely (the quilt miter, not my thumb).

Make a quilters knot by pinching the eye of the needle between your right forefinger and thumb, wrapping the thread around the needle clockwise from back to front, and pulling the needle through the knot with your left hand. 

  

Poke the needle through the batting and the very edge of the binding.

Travel through the batting without poking through the quilt top. Come up through the edge of the binding. Go back in just above where you came out (on the backing) and travel through the batting again. Repeat while watching numerous movies. Don't use a thread longer than you arm or it will tangle, knot, and break. Please believe me; I tried, and it wasn't fun.

Alternatively, you can machine stitch the back by stitching in the ditch on the top using top thread that blends with the quilt top and thread that matches the binding in the bobbin. I glue down the binding in this case so it doesn't slip out. Check out Sharon Schamber's video tutorial for more information. You'll also need glue tips.

Teacher Quilt: Binding

There is plentiful information about quilt blocks and tops online, in magazines, and in books. Poor binding, however, gets the short end of the stick when it comes to air time. I'm guilt of this too. Most often I neglect to mention the binding at all, or if I do, I might give fabric details. That's pretty much it. Today I thought I'd show you a few pointers as to my method. Also, I'm better at pinning than I am act productivity, so I do have a Pinterest board on the topic of binding.

First off, I use a Frixion pen to mark 45 degree angle lines on one end of each 2 1/2" strip. 

As a side note, these pens are not originally intended for fabric, and will leave a shadow of original markings even after heat has been applied. If the material gets cold, you may find a complete reappearance. Don't use them to mark quilting designs on the top of your quilt. View a cautionary illustration below. For purposes such as marking binding joins, though, I like them a lot.

Then I join the strips, stitching a hair closer to right side of the line (nearest the outer corner) so that pressing results in a smooth line. I press open and trim to 1/4". You can see the Diagonal Seam Tape pictured, which I highly recommend for aligning pieces such as these. I mist with starch and press the binding in half . Then I stitch it to the back of the quilt 3/8" from the edge if I will be machine stitching the other side. I stitch it to the front, if I intend to hand stitch the other side of the binding. I start in the middle of a side, leaving a tail to attach to the other end.

Still a bit remiss, I didn't photograph going around a corner. I did a post a long while ago, and I'm changed my technique a bit, but this portion remains the same if you want to check it out. As for connecting the two ends, the overlap should measure the width of your binding (2 1/2"). I fold the end of the top side at a 45 degree angle facing toward the quilt top. I lay the other end inside as it naturally falls.

I fold the top strip back over and since the middle two layers with my fingers, pulling outward gently. 

I stitch on the diagonal crease. Then I pull the binding into place to asses if my sizing was correct. 

If so, I cut the seam allowance to 1/4".

I refold the binding and lay it back in place. Then I stitch the gap closed.

Pac Man Quilt

Do you ever buy fabric without having a specific plan in mind and, some time later, come up with an idea that redeems the original impulse buy? My Pac Man fabric falls into this purchasing category. It's Geeks Gone Wild by Timeless Treasures, and at one time, I couldn't resist.

Inspired by this online clipart, I used EQ7 to sketch out a pattern and determine measurements for cutting pieces.

To complete this quilt's destiny, I chanced upon the most perfect photo spot. Those fingers and skinny little legs belong to my four year-old, who  wasn't terribly pleased with his new post as quilt holder, but reluctantly complied. 

Want a closer look?

I used Magic Binding for the first time ever. If you give this technique a try, I have a few recommendations:

• Use when you are more concerned with time constraints than heirloom quality. I'm not sure the quilt police have approved this method.
• Try to make the binding on the front larger than the binding on the back, or else you will be more likely to have stitching on your binding on the back of the quilt.
• Use the same color for the backing fabric and the main binding color. Then, if you accidentally run your line of stitching up on the binding on the back, it won't be so noticeable.
• If you have an edge-stitch foot, use it when you stitch the binding down on the front.
• Don't forget to sew the binding to the BACK of the quilt first.
• Avoid using this method if you have critical details at the very edges of your quilt, like points you don't want cut off.
• Don't cut off your excess binding until you join the two ends and ensure that it fits the quilt nicely. Joining the ends isn't enough fun to have to do it more than once if you cut it off way too short.

(I may, or may not, have learned all these lessons the hard way.)

Each ghost has a different free-motion quilting filler. Matching thread was used on the top and black was in the bobbin to match the backing fabric. Black lines about 1/2" apart echo the ghosts in the background.

Download the cutting measurements from Craftsy if you'd like to make your own Pac Man Ghost quilt.

How about some progress shots?

Clyde:

Pinky:

Blinky:

I got carried away and didn't take any shots of Inky until he was totally put together.

Inky:

If you make your own, please share in the Quilting Mod Flickr group.